I had a nice Autumn daytrip to Ogunquit with my mom

My mom took the weekend off from doing anything so we could go to Ogunquit when the tourists were gone. We stopped at Mainiax on the way there and were pleasantly surprised by the food, atmosphere and service. I had a lobster pie and my mom got a heaping helping of more appetizers than she could eat in three days...I helped.

We parked on near the beach and we were surprised to find it was free. When we went through town,(Perkins Cove) it was quiet, and oddly lifeless compared to the summer months. We took Marginal Way to Perkins Cove, and I tell you; the beauty just hits you in the stomach like a stack of bricks. The town itself is adorable, and nice and quiet in the fall. We stopped at Breaking New Grounds for some overpriced coffee and tea and sat out on the porch with a full view of the cove and the seagulls that flew overhead. We decided it was worth the overpriced coffee for the amazing view; a steal in retrospect.





We walked up shore road on the way back. I took alot of pictures of all the little stores with their Halloween decorations out. (I'll post them later), and this Pink Hotel that didn't seem to end made me chortle.

We stopped at this great little bookstore in town (Ogunquit town) and my mother found two mystery novels she had been looking for for ages. I found this beautiful book "The Arrival" by Shaun Tan, with some of the most inspiring and fantastical artwork I have seen in a while. I thought it would serve as the perfect memento for my day out with my mom, so despite the fact that I should be spending too much money, I purchased it.

Their was the most beautiful pink sunset that evening. While I was trying to take pictures the sound of bagpipes almost made me drop my camera...(beautiful though).

Walking Around Portland

I just had too...after seeing a tourist being told "Stick to the Old Port Area" for the upteenth time, (like the rest of Portland was a total wasteland full of big dangerous men with guns that will waste you as soon as you cross Temple street). I just had to take you on a little verbal "Where to Go" for those with no idea. (I didn't when I first moved here)

Anywho, yes the Old Port area is the place to go for boutique shopping, fine dining and super-intense people watching. I love getting an ice cream and going to Tommy's park on weekends to see half naked men juggling fire while rope-walking. However, for me the real attraction is the architecture and the overall vibe of the place; you can almost see the bloodied old pirates walking out of the Old Port Tavern...er (oh, well you do see them.) Between the cobblestones of Wharf street and grand architecture on Fore Street you feel almost like you are in another space in time. (until the floppy lookng tourist in a hot pink teeshirt and hotpants walks by anyway).

There are many different opportunities to get out onto the water, from whale watches to Windjammer Tours, to Duck Tours, to mailboat runs. Check out the Casco Bay Ferry Terminal if you have time (Eastern Commercial street). I enjoyed their sunset cruise around the islands. I just wish I had brought warmer clothes, food and someone to talk with. There was a group of friends singing and telling stories, I think they had the right idea on how to do it.

I enjoy spending time more in the center of Portland. Monument square often has free concerts, craft shows, festivals and farmers markets in the summers.(Weekends in the summer are screaming with activity all over Portland.)

Near High and Free Street (and High and Congress) are the Portland Museum of art and the Children's Museum of Maine. If you go east on Congress you will pass "Strange Maine" on your right, an interesting old record, video, CD, tape and book store that has all the things you didn't think you wanted at prices that make you smile:) One the same side of the road further up are "Space Gallery" and the Art College Gallery. (What are they calling it these days the "Maine Art Portland College of Portland Art" ?)

On the other side of the street is the Longfellow House. If you don't feel like going in at least check it's lovely secret garden. Then there is the Maine Historical Society building and the Library. (The bathrooms are downstairs, handy to know)

Go on to Monument Square where there are many stores, cafe's and restaurants, then curve down Elm street to Free and Cross Street, and see if there is anything playing at the Nickelodean cinemas that suits your fancy. (I just saw "Becoming Jane" there, and James Mcavoy sure suits my fancy.) If your done with the center of town, go ahead and mosey on down Middle Street to the Old Port.

The "Old Port" is loosely between Center and Franklin Arteriel and Federal street and the water, but most of the action is on Middle, Fore, Wharf, and Commercial between Union and Pearl Street, with Exchange Street serving as the epicenter. When your done there may I suggest moving on to the beaches in Scarborouh, Cape Elizabeth, or if you like a drive, Ogunquit. If you want to do more big brand shopping, go to Freeport or the Maine Mall.

:)

Mounds of Shells

My mother and I recently visited the "Shell Middens" in Damariscotta Link
Damariscotta one of those charming towns many tourists pass on by on their way up the coast. My brother recently moved there and he loves to walk with us to the "Salt Bay Cafe" then walk the beach or socialize with friends at the lovely bookstore cafe downtown.

The Middens themselves should be seen with their historical and folkloric context in mind, otherwise they are just "a pile of shells". They were used for years by native americans as a sort of "trash heap" but for archeologist they are heaps of treasure; broken pots, arrow heads and tools that help us put together a picture of life on the Damariscotta river before Europeans discovered potatoes. All this can feed a sense of magic and mystery engendered by old folk tales about the region.

I will quote from- David Quimby Cushman's; "The history of ancient Sheepscot and Newcastle, including early Pemaquid, Damariscotta, and other contiguous places, from the earliest discovery to the present time; together with the genealogy of more than four hundred families." (1882)

"It is supposed by many that in this vicinity was the lost 'city of New England' called Norumbega, or the ancient city of Arumpeag which is thought to mean the place of men. And on an island in the beautiful bay above, traditions says, was the place where they used to bury their dead." (pg. 315).

Link

(The Davistown museum has such an intriguing website. It really gives one a feel for Maine and it's history. I hope I can get a visit over to their museum sometime. Link)

We then went for a ride up the "River Road" that goes down the Damariscotta river; an interesting ride made more facinating by our place of mind. It is lined with old stone walls, lovely homes and ancient trees that inspire a certain sense of mystery. We parked for a minute at Dodge Point and looked at the maps. Most of the trails were rather long, although there was one up "old farm road" that wasn't too bad...we proposed to come back one day after we did more research (and brought insect repellant)

Then we drove on to Boothbay Harbor--a lovely shining city by the sea. One of my favorite places on the coast, there are so many things there I want to see and do there before I kick off; like visiting the Aquarium, going on a whale watch or eating at that restaurant right over the water that smells so good.

there are allot of great pictures of Boothbay Harbor on Photobucket Link

And while we are at it; here are some of Damariscotta Link

Searching for Norumbega

"a towne half a myle longe" which "hath many streets farr broader than any street in London" the men go naked except for skins about their middle, and wear on their arms and legs "hoopes" of gold and silver . . . "garnished with pearls, divers of them as big as one's thumb." The women wear plates of gold like armor and gold leaves about their middles, and on their limbs bracelets and leg ornaments like the men's. Their houses are round like a dovecote and are upheld by pillars of gold, silver, and crystal.

[1]

I am not expecting a city of gold, I just want to find "That town." I remember it like it was a dream; I was with my dad, we had commissioned to have an adventure; go for a ride on the coast somewhere we hadn't been to. I remember we visited a beautiful little coastal village I hadn't realized was there. Lined with quirky and interesting shops, gallery's, cafe's and restaurants, it was bordered on two sides by water, and it resounded with a preternatural feeling of mystery.

I remember visiting a particular gallery. The owner was full of stories; Andrew Wyeth had recently visited. She pointed to a painting he said he had liked best, one of a view outside a window. He had said he liked it because he was a proponant of painting "where one is". (Or so I was told). I remember we had an ice cream as we wandered around. I circled the village twice so I wouldn't forget it.

I have been wanting to find that town again, but with no luck. At first I was convinced it was Port Clyde, but a visit last summer with my mother blew away that theory. Then I thought, oh yeah, it was Rockport.....nope! In desperation I quized my father... he couldn't remember either.

And so I am left to utilize the modern tools I have at my disposal. I have been looking all over google maps for an unexplored coastal village, an amalgamation of cafes, galleries and restaraunts that I had not yet visited between Camden and Bath. I have yet to come up with anything, going up and down the coast doing searches for cafe's, bookstores, whatever might indicate a rather civilized and interesting seaside town when it hits me; perhaps they don't want to advertise.

I have a theory about the explorer Champlain and the as yet undiscovered "City Of Gold"; Norumbega
It is simply this; Native Americans weren't stupid. They had heard what had become to other "Golden Cities", and quite intelligently refrained from showing him anything worth pillaging.

Native Mainers aren't stupid either; they know what happens when summer people move in and drive home prices through the roof. Perhaps there might be a town or two that quite intelligently refrains from selling itself to our modern day plunderers, "from away".

There are many theories on where "Norumbega" might have been, the main being situated at or near Bangor on the Penobscot. Other theories I have heard bandied about are that it might be on the Damariscotta or St George River somewhere; all around the same area I am looking for my mystery town...hmmmm....

I am going with my mother on Monday to Damariscotta to see my brother and attend a meeting. Perhaps we will go up the "River Road" to Boothbay and see where any of those mysterious looking side roads lead. There is something about that road, it feels so ancient. When I look at the area on google maps (hybrid view) I see some interesting underwater formations between east Edgecomb and East Boothbay....Hmmmm....

Ugh Orchard beach

It is best to approach Old Orchard Beach as a bit of old fashioned americana constantly trying to improve itself. It's still cheesy fun in the summer sun for the whole family, but constriction crews are still there. They finished the great Victorian building, now they are working by the pier. I hope they fix it up some. For someone who grew up in Maine, wanted to go to OOB since I was a child, yet never quite going, then living part time in Santa Monica; the Pier was a bit of an anticlimax.

I had an interesting time, however. I wandered the beaches and took pictures until the restaurants on the Pier opened. I left the Pier to eat in the park due to the noisy teenagers, played a few old time fair games at the arcarde, then perused a book store that was having a sale. (I of course, left with a book that wasn't on sale)

The main drag is also kind of nice, but I still prefer the corners and sides of OOB to the middle. Ocean Park, Pine Point and the campgrounds up the road, all have more of an interesting vibe to them.

If you want a nice, peacefull beach I would suggest Kettle Cove in Cape Elizabeth. (To get there from Portland, go up 77 towards two-lights until you get to where the road splits to go to two-lights beach. Instead of taken the road that goes to two-lights go straight, you will notice a road on your left right before an ice cream place called "Kettle Kove". Take it, you would regret it.

I had a lovely day today

First went to "Target" and the "Christmas Tree Shops" with my mom, got a small 5 dollar grill, some chairs, intriquite green pillows and fancy coffee, then we thought we would head toward Scarborough for something to eat.

We stopped at this "Clam Cake Restaraunt" with picnic tables set up on the side. I had clamcakes, a coke and fries and my mom had a baked potatoe and coslaw. It was fun sitting outside with the wind breezing through my hair, the smell of the sea on the wind and the young family across from us trying to control their cantankerous brood. I miss those "summer feelings" during Maine's long harsh winters.

On the way back we investigated something we had seen on the way. There was some parking and signs like a park, and a path with this bridge that went over a facinating marshland.(Link To Scarborough Marsh website) We parked on the way back and took a stroll up the path, only to find it littered with fishermen and their families. There was one group who seemed to have been brought in through a break in time and space, their visage a perfect Norman Rockwell circa 1950's. We left quietly so as not to disturbe the fish.

I decided in the car that the perfect summer day would include a romp on the beach, a visit to a roadside seafood joint, an ice cream and a drive-in movie.

Midcoast Dining

Here are some of my favorite places to dine in the Midcoast area.
I grew up in the Midcoast, and so I've eaten out there a great deal. Here are some of my area favorites.

Salt Bay Cafe

We go here often with my brother, who lives in Damariscotta. The food here is commendable and the price won't break your bankbook. My brother always gets the chicken ceaser salad and it looks wonderful. My favorites so far are the mushroom crepes and the tostada salad. A tip- The vegitarian menu is MUCH more interesting than the regular menu, even if you are a meat eater.

Moody's Diner

An old staple from when my brother lived in Waldoboro-Long considered a classic Maine Diner. The atmosphere is better later, when the locals come in to party. Their food and service is tasty and dependable. Don't skimp by their pancakes or blueberry muffins!!!

Harbor View Restaurant

I was suppossed to go here tonight with my family, but something came up. It's right near the pier in Thomaston, with a lovely view of the St George river as it flows out to sea. I go there regularily when I go to see my father, and I have never gotten tired of the good food or the atmosphere. When I went a few years ago they had this wonderful lobster crepe (or omelet, I forget, doesn't matter, it was delicious.) The last thing I remember eating was one of their delicious steaks- they are a revelation you won't regret.

(edit-took my father there for father's day-still delicous)
Here is a great resource on the area-

The Real Maine

Suggestions for Daytrips-coastal villages

I thought I would suggest a few daytrips for the kind souls whose google searches led to this site. I was going to rate them, organize them etc...I'll just give you two before I go to work.

Ogunquit is the loveliest little tourist trap. I"m told it is like a mini P-town. If you go on a day when there isn't to many people you won't be dissapointed. (If you are going during the weekend book a hotel or arrive early in the morning, traffic and parking are a bitch). I would highly suggest you walk the Marginal Way, a mindblowingly beautiful walk around the coast that connects the two sides of Ogunquit, Perkins Cove and downtown Ogunquit. In the summer there is a Trolley service to nearby coastal towns like Kennebunkport and York Beach.

The two side of town have distinct personalities. Downtown has a more artsy feel, with bars, galleries and theatres and a slightly bohemian vibe. There are also tons of shops and Ogunquit beach is right nearby. On the other side of Marginal Way, Perkins Cove offeres a grand vista of rocks and water and seagulls, you really have to see it to realize why it is so popular. There are plenty of restaraunts and shops, but my favorite stop is "Breaking New Grounds" the coffee shop. Where else can you sip your coffee and have a scone looking out at views you thought were only possible in your dreams.

Here are some pictures I took, but trust me when I say they don't do the place justice- Link

I swear I'll take more this year.


Rockland has really come into it's own over the last few years, and it's one of the few coastal villages that still feels a bit like "Real Maine". (Which I personally define as the State I grew up in, other people have their own romantic definitions I'm sure). There is a great walk along the beach, and walking the breakwater, a long strip of land to the breakwater light, is a real summer time trip.

My family went on on of the many Windjammer tours that they offer in Rockland. They went around the coast and parked near an island for the night. The crew cooked for us, sang us songs, told us stories, it was truly a one of a kind experience. Sometimes I like to take one of the ferries to Vinahaven, Northhaven or Monhegan, three islands that have plenty of shops, galleries, places to eat, and trails to walk. Remember to bundle up whenever you go on the water. No matter how warm you are on land you'll get chilly on the ocean.

Don't forget to researve a couple of hours for the Farnsworth, well worth the trip if you are fans of the Wyeth's and other coastal and international artistis. I try to go at least once a year, their are exhibits are never disappointing. One ticket gives you entrance to the main museum, the Farnworth house and the Wyeth center.

I always end up, at the Second Read, the grasshopper shop, the art store and the other bookshop.I can't remember the name of my favorite restaurant there, but they are all pretty good. I hear they opened up the Strand Theatre again. It used to be the only movie house nearby when I was growing up, but now that we have the Flagship Cinemas, they've made it into a theatre, music, arts center. Happy story all around:)

I have found memories of going to the Lobster Festival as a child.They have a blues festival now as well.. I will put on some more info later for the lazy.Until then, here are the few pics I have of Rockland- Link

My Five Favorite Portland Restaurants

All five of these establishments are reasonably affordable and provide reliably good food.

Hot Suppa
703 Congress Street

Eaten there at least 11 times, never had a bad experience. Good simple, well-made food at reasonable prices. Breakfast served all day. My favorite's are the Biscuits with Sausage Gravy and their Blueberry Pancakes...everything I have tried there is good.

Porthole Restaurant
20 Custom House Wharf

Open until 2pm 7 days a week, this old soda fountain serves a reliably delicious breakfast and lunch and you get a great view of the water, especially if you eat at the picnic tables overlooking the docks. I really dig their haddock sandwich and crab-brie melt.

Flatbread Company
72 Commercial Street

Incredible pizza, fun and exiting ambiance with a woodfired oven in the middle of the room, and an amazing view of Casco Bay. Here is a link to Phantom Gourmet's Review- Link

Silly's
40 Washington Avenue

Such a fun atmosphere, friendly staff and interesting, affordable food. (menu available @ link above). A great place to take kids and your college buddies alike.

Super Great Wall Buffet
198 Maine Mall Road

If you want a great Chinese/American buffet, you want a great Chinese/American Buffet. We go here several times a year and are never disappointed by the food the service or the cleanliness. I wish the atmosphere could be calmer. If they could just dim the lights and darken the walls the ambiance would be much more appealing.